GOOD NEWS FOR THE WB E-TURBO

Thanks guys!
Mkngstff, "Why dont I just do what will work" well, I want it to work and why this wouldn't? Currently I have space issue and I don't want something that is "2ft long". But what do you think about 0.002" jumping? When you have model car, do you have this kind of miss match? I can't beleive model car have 0.000" thru..
For the motor flat spot, my TP motor had not the flat spot and I want this one to be too. But I receive it with a flat spot and I don't remember seeing one without.
For replacing the shaft I've never take a minute to know how they did make it and knowing it is press fited, thats interesting! I can't personnaly make hardened shaft but I may look to it! If I we can have this kind of direct drive that would be awesome!
 
Alex: yes I think the flat on the shaft could make it of centered and I wish my motor shaft had no flat on it. About pressing it out, I don't think I'm going to risk it for now! A real shrink fit should have up to 0.0016" interference. But knowing about the flat spot, I did 0.0004" interference. So the hole was 0.314" and the motor shaft was on the "small size" of 0.3144"

For the volute damage, did you see when I grind my spacer? I've never mesured it and it was off by 0.0035" last time.. so imagine this 2" further! I think at the end, it was a lot. So I think my new shaft with 0.002" off is good!
For the ESC spikes, my first set sure had a lot more offcenter than this one. like you saw in the video, the log of last year have 10A max of "spikes". It was at 50% power at 350ish Amps.
When it start to act weird (when I thought my motor was dead) we saw spikes of 100A up and down and go up to 900A and shut down
My new set up, I run it to 30% first to be conservative and it shut immediatly. I go down to 20% and set a RPM limite instead at 30k RPM and the Amps was crazy like you saw in the video
Anyway Im not sure this was related to the off centered shaft because I was super slow and the Amps was to the roof! And of course it work last year with better data and a shaft way more offcentered.
To conclued no I don't have bank cap or something. Just straight 7' cable to the motor and 4" cable to the battery. I've allready send a message to MGM with the log! I will give you guys update the second I have
 
WB projects said:
Thanks guys!
Mkngstff, "Why dont I just do what will work" well, I want it to work and why this wouldn't? Currently I have space issue and I don't want something that is "2ft long". But what do you think about 0.002" jumping? When you have model car, do you have this kind of miss match? I can't beleive model car have 0.000" thru..
For the motor flat spot, my TP motor had not the flat spot and I want this one to be too. But I receive it with a flat spot and I don't remember seeing one without.
For replacing the shaft I've never take a minute to know how they did make it and knowing it is press fited, thats interesting! I can't personnaly make hardened shaft but I may look to it! If I we can have this kind of direct drive that would be awesome!
Click to expand...

I'm A X R/C club champ... having a very slightly off center pinion gear on the motor doesn't matter because
1) The pinion is small an light.
2) It doesn't matter because their is a gap between the pinion gear and spur gear so any miss alignment can be taken up by that gap.

To be honest the Shrink fit is what is causing the miss alignment. When it shrinks it can easily shrink more where the flat spot is.. since there is no shaft resisting the shrink and therefore it's off center.

It's theoretically possible to get it perfect but not with a significant shrink fit on a round shaft with a section milled off so it's err not round..

For a different idea .. are you able to remove the motor can and put the motors shaft/ magnets in the lathe and then turn it true now ? i guess it would be to small now.. but you could do it again like this... then it all has to be true
 
WB projects said:
Alex: yes I think the flat on the shaft could make it of centered and I wish my motor shaft had no flat on it. About pressing it out, I don't think I'm going to risk it for now! A real shrink fit should have up to 0.0016" interference. But knowing about the flat spot, I did 0.0004" interference. So the hole was 0.314" and the motor shaft was on the "small size" of 0.3144"

For the volute damage, did you see when I grind my spacer? I've never mesured it and it was off by 0.0035" last time.. so imagine this 2" further! I think at the end, it was a lot. So I think my new shaft with 0.002" off is good!
For the ESC spikes, my first set sure had a lot more offcenter than this one. like you saw in the video, the log of last year have 10A max of "spikes". It was at 50% power at 350ish Amps.
When it start to act weird (when I thought my motor was dead) we saw spikes of 100A up and down and go up to 900A and shut down
My new set up, I run it to 30% first to be conservative and it shut immediatly. I go down to 20% and set a RPM limite instead at 30k RPM and the Amps was crazy like you saw in the video
Anyway Im not sure this was related to the off centered shaft because I was super slow and the Amps was to the roof! And of course it work last year with better data and a shaft way more offcentered.
To conclued no I don't have bank cap or something. Just straight 7' cable to the motor and 4" cable to the battery. I've allready send a message to MGM with the log! I will give you guys update the second I have
Click to expand...
Do the MGM's have adjustable Current limits ? like the VESC ?
 
MkngStffAwesome said:
For a different idea .. are you able to remove the motor can and put the motors shaft/ magnets in the lathe and then turn it true now ? i guess it would be to small now.. but you could do it again like this... then it all has to be true
Click to expand...
For something to be true, you need to machine it in one set up. Imagine machine one part, remove it of the chuck and putting back in and try to putting back to 0.000 is almost impossible. Like I said in the beginning of the video with my drawing.
MkngStffAwesome said:
Do the MGM's have adjustable Current limits ? like the VESC ?
Click to expand...
I can adjust the power in % but I don't know how it work because 20% is not 550A 😂
 
WB projects said:
For something to be true, you need to machine it in one set up. Imagine machine one part, remove it of the chuck and putting back in and try to putting back to 0.000 is almost impossible. Like I said in the beginning of the video with my drawing.

I can adjust the power in % but I don't know how it work because 20% is not 550A 😂
Click to expand...

i dont think you understood any of my questions / points
 
I think I understand yes. But you may not understand me. If I put the magnet and motor shaft in the lathe, I will be offcenter no mather what. I can get clost but never at 0.000

To be more precise about the ESC no I can't set a max current. I think.. but what I can do is "max current %" so it's kind of
 
WB projects said:
I can heat treat the shaft and I have a cylindrical grinder but it's not accurate at all.. but it worth to try it I think
Click to expand...

Interestingly while it worked it eventually died i believe ... It kept on killing the bearings, which they should have tried ones with ceramic balls.. or the bearing failure could have been caused by to much flex in the shaft because of the steel used.

You know you could just copy two of the people that clamed to have gotten it to work (Wessel and eclectic turbos on facebook ) and you use this


The compressor wheel
cool you found that one.. I was trying to find that exact one with the 8mm bore but couldn't
1660856317114.png



https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1462439499.html?spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.2.2485Jg3kJg3k7k&pdp_npi=2@dis!NZD!NZ$ 32.65!NZ$ 28.68!!!!!@21032fa116608511927282750e4a12!60340385724!btf&_t=pvid:220dafee-4905-4965-929e-c39c3e4efa98&afTraceInfo=1462439499__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1660851192


Because it has a 8mm bore it can go directly on the end of the motor shaft.

I like how Electurbo on FB dealt with the problem of the shaft not being very long.. They removed the motors end cap and machined that into the compressors housing plate and put the bearing in there to save the space / length of the shaft.

1632441109808-png.117


How / where to get a Turbo Compressor converted to E-Turbo & designs

I feel like my mate will never come through and machine up my e-turbo... and even if he does it might be to large anyway. So this is about how and where to convert a turbo turbo over to an E-Turbo. In theory it's rather easy if you have the tools (which i dont) .. but there's Easy and then...
www.electrifiedboost.com www.electrifiedboost.com

Alternatively you might be able to bore out your existing wheel 8mm
 
It's safer to make an 8mm shaft with a 1/4" portion for the compressor wheel instead of bore the compressor wheel to 8mm. Like I explain, you need to have 1 set up if you want something true. The moment you modified or have a second operation, this is where things get tricky. Bore the compressor wheel is the last thing I want to do!
The idea of removing the end cap for space is verry genius
 
I've made some research and realise that the motor shaft is not hardened steel! there is nothing special about the steel. I see cold-rolled (CRS), hot-rolled, sometimes stainless or drill rode like I use. but nothing super fancy.
I realise a normal turbo have a soft steel shaft too!
 
hello!
I wrote today an email to TPPower if it is possible to order a custom motor, with 8mm diameter shaft and 100mm long.
He said it is everything possible :) but right know he can not make it, BUT if i have the long shaft what i need, he can send it to the main factory to china, and they can assemble it with a motor.

This could solve many problems, with bearing, unbalance.
I just wrote an email direct to the china tppower.com if they can make it without my shaft.

That is a good idea to get rid of the front housing of the motor and put it directly to compressor housing, it makes the whole thing shorter and easier.
 
powy said:
hello!
I wrote today an email to TPPower if it is possible to order a custom motor, with 8mm diameter shaft and 100mm long.
He said it is everything possible :) but right know he can not make it, BUT if i have the long shaft what i need, he can send it to the main factory to china, and they can assemble it with a motor.

This could solve many problems, with bearing, unbalance.
I just wrote an email direct to the china tppower.com if they can make it without my shaft.

That is a good idea to get rid of the front housing of the motor and put it directly to compressor housing, it makes the whole thing shorter and easier.
Click to expand...
thats excellent news! I hope they can do less than 6 poles though (like 2 or 4 poles).
The 6 poles need a lot or switching ... (shaft rpm x polecount/2 = erpm)
 
When i bought my 4070cm 2 years ago i asked them to make a longer shaft and they said they wouldn't .. they did say they would knock it through so it was as long as possible , which they did . so mine is 24mm long.. i think stock is 18mm

Yeah they do make a 2 pole scm version but i believe it has a lower power output.

I still can't stop believing that anyone that wants to go for high boost 10PSI plus.. will have to gear the motor.. More boost means more RPM and more power requirements. But Higher RPM normally requires a smaller motor which means less power, Making it impossible, Or at least very costly. Guess you could have a massive impeller wheel to keep the RPM requirements low though...
 
I asked about the 4080cm, it has 4 poles and the max rpm is 68k.
You are right with the gearing for higher boost, i went the other way and bought a gt45, if you look at the compressormap it builds boost already at 33k rpm :)
It is still just a plan, but that was my idea with the bigger compressor.
 
one more thing came to my mind:

while it looks like custom motorshafts for BLDCs possibly are nothing special material and treatment wise ... didn't @AlexLTDLX face some challenges when he tried to machine the P2 charger impeller shaft?
In other words: impeller shafts have special metal requirements and we want to mount a impeller to a "soft" (non special) custom eMotor shaft???

crap ... looks like we are just pushing the problem to "somewhere else".
 
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