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Yes! It supposed to be 1045. I want to use 4140 but it look like 1045 is better 
GOOD NEWS FOR THE WB E-TURBO
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I should receive my castle motor in the end of the month! I'm super exited to see how a "real" motor will performe! Knowing my TP motor was not the one I bought but instead a motor way less powerfull..
Can't wait to try it
By the way I did a lot of research about how a motor can fail. In my case I'm pretty sure its the over volting I did! The normal 4070 motor I had instead of the 4070-CM is arround 24v max. The CM version is something like 32v max I think. I was running it with 50v with my new battery pack.
In both cases, I over volting it by a lot. I've start with my first pack with 32v like intended but I honnestly dont think about the motor voltage when I build my second 50v pack. Anyway good result for couple days
What I read online is "you have "no" limitation with voltage but you have limitation with current." The problem about the voltage, and I'm pretty thats what happen, is the coating on the wire have limitation before a spark jump from a wire to an other.
Anyway, I'm done with TP motor and I really like the team with castle motor! I think I don't like TP for first: they send me the wrong motor. Second: they don't even try to respond to my e-mail..
Can't wait to try it
By the way I did a lot of research about how a motor can fail. In my case I'm pretty sure its the over volting I did! The normal 4070 motor I had instead of the 4070-CM is arround 24v max. The CM version is something like 32v max I think. I was running it with 50v with my new battery pack.
In both cases, I over volting it by a lot. I've start with my first pack with 32v like intended but I honnestly dont think about the motor voltage when I build my second 50v pack. Anyway good result for couple days
What I read online is "you have "no" limitation with voltage but you have limitation with current." The problem about the voltage, and I'm pretty thats what happen, is the coating on the wire have limitation before a spark jump from a wire to an other.
Anyway, I'm done with TP motor and I really like the team with castle motor! I think I don't like TP for first: they send me the wrong motor. Second: they don't even try to respond to my e-mail..
MkngStffAwesome
Active member
Im not surprised you got the wrong motor cos your one was WAY cheaper than the genuine one i got..I should receive my castle motor in the end of the month! I'm super exited to see how a "real" motor will performe! Knowing my TP motor was not the one I bought but instead a motor way less powerfull..
Can't wait to try it
By the way I did a lot of research about how a motor can fail. In my case I'm pretty sure its the over volting I did! The normal 4070 motor I had instead of the 4070-CM is arround 24v max. The CM version is something like 32v max I think. I was running it with 50v with my new battery pack.
In both cases, I over volting it by a lot. I've start with my first pack with 32v like intended but I honnestly dont think about the motor voltage when I build my second 50v pack. Anyway good result for couple days
What I read online is "you have "no" limitation with voltage but you have limitation with current." The problem about the voltage, and I'm pretty thats what happen, is the coating on the wire have limitation before a spark jump from a wire to an other.
Anyway, I'm done with TP motor and I really like the team with castle motor! I think I don't like TP for first: they send me the wrong motor. Second: they don't even try to respond to my e-mail..
Your experience with TP is probably not TPs fault but the dodgy shop you bought it from.
Where did you get the TP motor from ?
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I bought it directly on TP power USA website
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The beast is here
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MkngStffAwesome
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did you machine the motor casing down so you could then fit your heat sink
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Yes I did 
it was suuuuuper scary
it was suuuuuper scary
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This is a quick look!
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I did the same ish thing but I've start with the motor hole first to gain precision. But sade thing you will se in the video I mess something and I may not use shrink fit again 
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New videos's out! Have a look
Have you thought about disassembling the castle motor and machine a one piece replacement shaft for it?
(or supply Castle/Neu Motor with a long one piece custom shaft and they build the motor around it?)
So far the "coupling problem" is a very big problem ... and most of us have neither your machining skills, no tools and no access to somebody who actually has the same motivation as you do (3rd party machinist) to solve that problem.
(if we cannot get a custom motor/shaft combo, then the only way remaining is to rely on "mass produced precision" where it matters ... and to use a belt drive with tensioner)
(or supply Castle/Neu Motor with a long one piece custom shaft and they build the motor around it?)
So far the "coupling problem" is a very big problem ... and most of us have neither your machining skills, no tools and no access to somebody who actually has the same motivation as you do (3rd party machinist) to solve that problem.
(if we cannot get a custom motor/shaft combo, then the only way remaining is to rely on "mass produced precision" where it matters ... and to use a belt drive with tensioner)
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Yes, when I first start the project. But they are balence, heat treat, ground and how do you disassemble rhe magnet?
Would be good to know how they manufacture them in the first place ... maybe it is impossible to disassemble them without damage.
(therefor the suggestion you send/specify a shaft to "them" for a custom motor build?)
just googled "BLDC custom shaft" and got "smashed with a sledgehammer" 
MkngStffAwesome
Active member
i like that you used thermal paste
I like how you machined the shaft
However like i said before trying to center the shaft perfectly when part of the motor shaft has been machined off is going to be extremely difficult.
Why dont you just do what will work.. and have a separate compressor shaft supported by 2 bearings and a coupler of some sort connecting the two shafts.. OR buy a motor that hasn't have the shaft machined down.
Also on the Phantom super group they once took a TP motor and pressed the shaft out and replaced it with a new custom one.. you could try that since you have a spear motor. while this did work it didn't last .. WE are not sure why but my theory is because they weren't machining the shaft out of a stiff enough steel.
^lol. Well, I guess that's "disassembled."
WB - I just watched your video in detail (and re-watched several parts). About the impeller shaft getting stuck on the motor shaft - did you think about levering it off, or using wedges like removing a jacob's chuck? It might damage the bearing, but it should get it off. Here's what I noticed when I did mine - even when the motor shaft and the hole are the exact same diameter, the flat on the motor shaft made the fit feel looser than it is. If there's a slight press fit, the shaft will offset because of the flat - putting in the setscrews also locates the shaft. Since you're the machinist and I'm not, I'm interested to hear your thoughts on this.
As for the ESC spikes - now I'm less sure than ever about what's going on. Is it possible that the current spikes (and the volute damage) are somehow related to the impeller shaft being slightly off center? When I was playing with the VESC, I ran into all kinds of current spike issues - kind of like what you're seeing. Before I was pretty sure it was an ESC issue, but less so now (though it still could be, I suppose). Do you have a capacitor bank on your power input to the ESC? Ask the MGM guys what they think. It may also be a problem with wiring on either the battery side or the motor side. If you had a single wire going to the motor with more resistance than the others, would that cause spike issues? I dunno.
Sorry I can't be more definitive -all I can say is that I'd do a lot more testing before I replaced the ESC. Can you post a pic of your battery/esc combo from several different angles? Maybe we'll see something worth checking out...
WB - I just watched your video in detail (and re-watched several parts). About the impeller shaft getting stuck on the motor shaft - did you think about levering it off, or using wedges like removing a jacob's chuck? It might damage the bearing, but it should get it off. Here's what I noticed when I did mine - even when the motor shaft and the hole are the exact same diameter, the flat on the motor shaft made the fit feel looser than it is. If there's a slight press fit, the shaft will offset because of the flat - putting in the setscrews also locates the shaft. Since you're the machinist and I'm not, I'm interested to hear your thoughts on this.
As for the ESC spikes - now I'm less sure than ever about what's going on. Is it possible that the current spikes (and the volute damage) are somehow related to the impeller shaft being slightly off center? When I was playing with the VESC, I ran into all kinds of current spike issues - kind of like what you're seeing. Before I was pretty sure it was an ESC issue, but less so now (though it still could be, I suppose). Do you have a capacitor bank on your power input to the ESC? Ask the MGM guys what they think. It may also be a problem with wiring on either the battery side or the motor side. If you had a single wire going to the motor with more resistance than the others, would that cause spike issues? I dunno.
Sorry I can't be more definitive -all I can say is that I'd do a lot more testing before I replaced the ESC. Can you post a pic of your battery/esc combo from several different angles? Maybe we'll see something worth checking out...