I'm new here and to this process and have found the idea very interesting now that electric motors capable of supporting the idea are available.
Fortunately like many of you I have the equipment to experiment with. I've been looking at a pin gauge set for about a year now and expect to be adding one to my tool collection soon.
I have a quality four jaw and adjustable 3 jaw chuck and so far managed just under .0005" runout on dial in. But I'm a new hobby machinist and know I can do better after learning how to dial in the 4 jaw after the initial attempt and realizing that the stop I wedged behind the tailstock (still slides after tightening under good pressure) against a casting slat between the bed rails caused a little bit of twist in my 12x28 lathe and a taper at the end of the shaft. I also used a dead center instead of my live center and a follow rest, which is only good for a single pass, after that when the steady tabs go down on the second pass and make contact only near the end of the shaft. it's going to deflect the shaft a bit and affect the depth of cut.
After seeing all of my mistakes I pulled out my adjustable ER40 collet holder and that's when it got real. After dialing it in I conducted a test cut on an 8mm drill rod that I annealed first and got less than .0005" runout on the 5 tenth indicator and confirmed what looked like .0002" range with my 1 tenth indicator although it is the lever type. The finish wasn't all that great so I'm pretty confident the runout I observed in the test area would hold firm at .0002" or less upon polishing out the fine peaks.
Next I'll have to learn how to cut threads to use the left handed die that arrived. I'm planning to use a gear drive arrangement in an effort to minimize friction loss although I have cog wheels and belts for a belt drive. I also have some ceramic bearings coming for the shaft.
I built my first turbo setup over 20 years ago and built several after that so I'm no stranger to turbos and have been sitting on a GTX3584 ball bearing unit for the past 3 yrs slowly making plans for it until now. You all are probably strangers to this, but there's nothing like boost and high compression ratios, my best to date, 11.5:1 in a V6 with water/methanol injection. High compression is the other way of getting rid of turbo lag. Water/meth injection makes a lot possible under boost without breaking the bank. I have a T-76 compressor setup with a 36,000 rpm level to deliver 2+ psi at 40lb/min and 50,000 rpm speed to deliver 7 psi at 40lb/min for the 3.6L at peak power band. I'm going to set a 65,000 rpm limit for the 75,000 rpm max TP motor and then gear it down to 55,000 rpm from the 65k rpm limit. Hopefully it will be powerful enough to get the job done at 5000W continuous which would be mechanically increased with gear reduction.
Now I'm dealing with direct injection (GM 3.6L DOHC) that is a phenomenal game changer. The motor is delivered from the factory with 11.5:1 compression rated for 87 octane fuel, which means I can run even higher compression with water/meth injection and switching to premium fuel. My plans are to build a "Quiet riot" inside a 2010-14 Cadillac CTS Coupe with a base motor that's 305-318 hp and spins to a 7200 rpm redline.
I can really use some help with battery selection. I'm not really interested in, but I'm open to building a battery, but would prefer to buy something already in production delivering close to 100 A/hr in the 50 volt range for the TP4070, 1400Kv 160A motor.
Perhaps two to four of these in parallel,
https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=488
Here's an extreme option for long term power delivery between charges for a daily driver.