E-boosted MX-5

MkngStffAwesome

Active member
Not my project

The most complete project with no money spared ( race car )



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i like how there is a seperate induction for the intake so as not to hinder the top end of the engine when it's revving.
 
but MRS are toyotas mid engine rear wheel drive. i MIGHT be wrong but it DOES like the back end of theMRS. OR a last generation celica.
I am probably wrong though..
err this is a mazda... and this is front engine ?... i dont know where you are getting the idea it's toyota MRS from ?

if you click on the link i provided there is a lot of in-depth info on this car and mods

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isnt that a LONG way for the boosted air to travel to get to the engine?? I am reading the blog now. he did GREAT work though
 
Hmm this seems to be close to what I was eluding to in the "step up" chat.

Back when my car was just turbocharged I was looking at Rotrex as a form of twin charging. Then my motor bent a rod... and went V8 instead.

Anyway it is interesting to note that the Rotrex chargers use step up planetary friction gearing. Depending on the model they range from around 1:6 to 1:9.

He seems to have a decent grasp at what is needed to spin that bad boy to 8-11psi on a 2L. I sent a request to join, Hopefully he does and can shed some more knowledge to this already skilled group!
 
The BIG difference is :
when you drive a charger from the crankshaft then you NEED to overdrive it to get into the efficient area of the map!

Whereas here we are looking at eMotors which can spin to about 40-50k rpm already ... some smaller screamers to even more (but mostly with less momentum/torque).
We (meanwhile are) underdriving them (the charger impellers) to increase torque and still hit a meaningful area of the map when "loaded". (Depending on charger size and engine displacement we have some impeller rpms to spare! And e.g. the P2 is a big beast and not some small turbo...)
 
That is just the thing... Rotrex's are internally geared up already. (His setup is geared up) While I already agreed to that point in the other topic, In this case all of that is moot! How many kits or DIY'ers have 8psi at redline.. and if you take in to account the volume of the piping and intercooler it has to fill we are talking a much higher output at the compressor outlet. (Maybe 10-11psi)

As far as the averave joe being able to replicate it, well all the info is in his thread. It can easily be done... he just spent WAY more than what most of us are willing to.

He'll I'm sure someone out there could go buy a Royobi brushless 1/2 impact and produce boost with it... it would have to be geared in a ridiculous manner as it only spins to 1,400rpm... but it has some decent tq! if you wanted you could buy two and still be around what one TP power motor costs... is this realistic... not really... but it is something to note about selecting a motor to produce the desired results and what it costs and what gearing if any needs to be implemented.

What I am getting at is an exercise in finding the right combination. What is the point in having a high rpm motor spinning a compressor wheel that it doesn't have the tq/power to spin effectively...

Granted Alex had good results form direct driving the Vortech with the Tp power...
But would that setup be better with the LMT torqstar3? What other motors are out there, where are their technical data sheets?

As Diyers we are always looking to get the best results with the compromise of being frugal. I'm not trying to argue with anyone here at all! There is a wealth of information here and some people with the means to test, write code, 3d print, Ect.. That all amounts to amazing insight and development of a system many say isn't worth the time, money, or energy.

I have seen great things so far on this forum from its members, and I don't think I have read through half of what is on here.
The BIG difference is :
when you drive a charger from the crankshaft then you NEED to overdrive it to get into the efficient area of the map!
 
cmoalem - I've never gotten their calcs to work. I just input my voltage/current and rpm and it showed no motor available, though the specs I input were from LMT themselves. I find their website to be not useful, personally.
 
cmoalem - I've never gotten their calcs to work. I just input my voltage/current and rpm and it showed no motor available, though the specs I input were from LMT themselves. I find their website to be not useful, personally.

I was only able to get a few pieces of information... I was eying the LMT 3080 vs the TP 5870... and for the price the TP is swaying me. I still feel it's not enough for what I want on the P2... or which ESC i should run. Seeing as you are having some issues with it. I'm not set up to do any testing for months...so... I check for updates all the time from Alex.
I'm very limited on space up front so I too would be looking at remote mounting.
I would put that valve closer to the intake so when the system is off it would just breath like the 376hp 5.3L it is... that is a whole other conversation though.
 
The issue I'm finding with the TP motors is our need for longer cables and the fact that they don't have sensors and have 6 poles. Castle Creations has a 12s 4 pole sensored motor. Not sure it would have enough power, but in short bursts it might be fine. The price is under $300. I'm switching over to working on the Sledgehammer since the VESC/TP setup is causing me so much grief. I'm trusting the MGM/LMT in sensored configuration will just work. The LMT 3080 seems like it would give much better performance thant the TP Power 5870. In fact, I might sell both my TP Power motors and see what I can get with a different motor. I think if I can get the VESC to play nice and consistently with another motor that might be the ticket.
 
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