AlexLTDLX's Electric Turbo Saga

AlexLTDLX

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Staff member
Well, I guess I should go first... most of you are probably here because of this project; I'm grateful that you've taken the time to participate and contribute. I really do feel electric boost is the future of power adders. Towards that end, let's start with our first dyno session - where we went from 373 rwhp to 437 rwhp:

Of course you've seen the video, but let me post the dyno graphs; first up the naturally aspirated final (best) dyno pull:
NADynoGraphFinal.jpg

And now our best (the second) boosted pull:
2psiDynoGraphFinal.jpg

Keep in mind this is through a power glide; because of the need for a relatively loose torque converter, the graphs cover less rpm (you can't get accurate numbers below the stall speed because of torque multiplication) and even up top there's still about 12% slip. In other words, we would've seen about 420 rwhp through a manual trans or more modern lockup trans naturally aspirated, and boosted, we would've seen just under 500 rwhp on only 2 psi.

Here's the datalog:
Dyno2ndBoostedPullDatalog.jpg

Next up I want to share our first 1/4 mile pass data....
 
Here's the datalog from our first drag outing - this video:

This is the second (fastest) boosted pass. On this pass, one of the packs got disconnected; so we were only running on 1 pack. Even so, because there was a little heat in the lipos, they made more power:

2ndPassBoosteddatalog.jpg

And just because it's easier to read here than in a video, here's ALL the ESC datalogs:
Screenshot (55).pngScreenshot (56).pngScreenshot (57).pngScreenshot (58).pngScreenshot (59).png

Screenshot (60).pngScreenshot (61).pngScreenshot (62).pngScreenshot (63).png
 
And finally, a composite of the first pass (where all the packs were still connected):

Screenshot (45).png


You can see that even though the voltage was higher; the current and power are lower - I'm guessing we're running up against the internal resistance of the cold lipos. That shouldn't be an issue with the LTO packs. Stay tuned!
 
Good news! I just found out that someone several people I know know (I know, that's a lot of "knows" - hopefully it makes sense) is opening BOTH tracks closest to me as early as next Friday. One track has been closed for a few years, and the other since covid and wasn't going to re-open. It's a huge difference having to drive 70-100 miles each way around these parts (just outside DC - some of the worst traffic in the country) vs 30 miles each way. I'd better get off my duff and finish this new battery pack, get a new 5 point harness (they're only good for 2 years), get some new slicks mounted and make some HITS! Hopefully I can be ready in a month or so. But I'll try to get it done quicker...
 
I'm sure many of you have seen this already, but last night I posted a little "tour" of my first of two completed battery packs. The second pack should come together quickly, since now I've already made all the small parts for both, and figured out how it goes together best. Here's the vid:


So now I've got to hurry up and assemble the second pack, get my load tester built and load test the packs, put together the little "one switch" control module, re-install my old rather large A/W ice tank/pump (and actually, get a smaller pump - I don't think I need a 2,000 gallon per hour bilge pump - maybe a 20 gallon per hour unit), but at least one ice fill up should last a whole day now, instead of just a single pass. And then a new pair of slicks (that burnout completely destroyed my old slicks); install a new 5 point harness (they're only good for two years for some dumb reason - I could see 5 years, but two years? Come on...) and hit the track. No nothing major, and nothing dreadful. I'd like to hit the track no later than early September.
 
Even though I just posted this video in the tech forum under my "7,000 amp load tester" thread, I'm going to include it here for posterity's sake. This is a first look into what the Lishen cells are capable of. Since I couldn't test my full packs because if excessive plasma arcing, I used some "reject" cells and put together a small pack (4s) to test vs. a car battery:
 
Just a little update. The control box is nearing completion - it's an all-in-one solution with the contactor, capacitor charging power resistors, time delays (for the cap charging before the contactor kicks in); relays and boost converter for charging the packs:
ControlBoxOutside.jpg
ControlBoxInside.jpg
The relays, timer delays and connectors still need to be mounted. The timers are those two small white (sort of trnaslucent) rectangles with wires coming out of them. They're already programmed for a 4 second delay.
 
By request from Youtube. A couple of underwhelming pics of the vaporized spade connectors and carpet skid mark from when they made momentary contact - the flash was so bright I was blinded for a few seconds afterwards. I had forgotten that they were still connected to one of the packs, and when I was moving stuff around to shoot the controller video. Thankfully, they were relatively small:

IMG_20210927_151114__01__01.jpg

IMG_20210927_150926__01.jpg

You can still see some metal in the carpet.
 
So .. it seems like the Boost is always running and not disconnected when the turbo is running ?
Minor thing.. but you dont really need a low side relay on the Boost just one on the high or low side would stop the current flowing?.. AND the low side has an auto off option when the low side drops below a voltage anyway (car off)

The Huge relay, resistors and so on.. i get why you need it to slowly charge the caps at the other end and it gives you a way to turn it all off. But at the same time this seems like all of this is only when connecting the the LTO's to the ESC ( and caps ) the first time.. All of this is based on the assumption that you're going to disconnect the ESC and caps all the time.. I would think most people would just leave the ESC connected to the main batteries all the time and the nano to 12v all the time then this isn't required (other than first connection with a resistor)...

Nothing wrong with going the extra mile though
 
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The usb buck converter for the arduino? It's only on when the e turbo is switched on. All ESCs have caps on the B+ input; and therefore most (if not all) have resistors across them to discharge them when the power's switched off. So yeah, you do need the power resistors on power up.

I don't know if you're familiar with this guy's channel, but literally every hybrid and EV he's taken apart (and he's take apart a lot of them - he's a professor at Weber University and that's his job) works the same way re: the caps and power resistors - I found him after I made the first setup and was surprised to find I figured out the hard way what the OEMs have been doing for years:

 
Simplifying my previous post
1) Question. Are you turning off the Boost convertor when the E-turbo is running?
2) State meant. About the Additional Relay.. Does matter at all though.

3) An observation that you must be intending on turning the power on and off regularly going to the remote ESC and CAP's to justify this..

4th)It's all good
 
The boost converter's got relays both on the input and output. Eventually, I'll probably automate the charging process, but for now I just have a rocker switch in the center dash to turn it on and off. In fact, I 3d printed a new panel today for the new switch arrangement. I've also run the heavy cables (did it right this time - and it's a pain in the ass, to be honest - had to partially remove the rear seat, all the plastic at the doorjambs, the passenger lower seatbelt mount, etc).

Even though I have to work tomorrow, I hopefully should have all the wiring done. Just the switch panel (which needs a bit of wiring), and terminating the heavy power cables (they're 2 gauge, and about 20 feet long).

I'm not sure how much more boost we'll see - could be anything from half a psi to 2-3. Obviously, I'd love to see a gin of 3 - that'd be 9 psi on the leave and 6 psi at peak power. That should put us over 700 hp, and it should leave like getting rear ended by a freight train.
 
Oh, and to answer your question - I'll probably not charge it while running the e turbo, but it probably really won't make too much difference (aside from the additional 30 amp load on the alternator - though that's only about 1/2 hp draw).
 
Well, I guess I should go first... most of you are probably here because of this project; I'm grateful that you've taken the time to participate and contribute. I really do feel electric boost is the future of power adders. Towards that end, let's start with our first dyno session - where we went from 373 rwhp to 437 rwhp:

Of course you've seen the video, but let me post the dyno graphs; first up the naturally aspirated final (best) dyno pull:
View attachment 7

And now our best (the second) boosted pull:
View attachment 8

Keep in mind this is through a power glide; because of the need for a relatively loose torque converter, the graphs cover less rpm (you can't get accurate numbers below the stall speed because of torque multiplication) and even up top there's still about 12% slip. In other words, we would've seen about 420 rwhp through a manual trans or more modern lockup trans naturally aspirated, and boosted, we would've seen just under 500 rwhp on only 2 psi.

Here's the datalog:
View attachment 9

Next up I want to share our first 1/4 mile pass data....
Hi, for the non Americans like me what is an LTD LX and what is the engine? I ask because making 500hp of an 8 liter engine is nothing special, while making 500hp of a 1.5 liter engine is, so can you provide some links that we can look up to get a handle on what the car is?

Cheers
 
Bill Murray from The Life Aquatic With Steve Zissou: "Let me tell you about my boat." This car is a 1984 LTD LTX. I had an '85 LTD LX I bought in college for $1,200; but a few years later, some body filler on the rear quarter fell off, and that's when I discovered the '85 was pieced together from 2 different cars (must've been a serious wreck when it was still relatively new). So I found this '84 LTD LX for $400, being sold by a guy's girlfriend who was going to jail for coke possession. When I dropped the money off with the girlfriend (who was a bartender in a VFW place), she actually said to me, "Thank god it's not going to one of them coloreds." Wow. I mean, wow. And she wasn't old or anything. It was just so weird. I feel like it's a "rescue" - like an abused dog. It ran and drove, but sucked about 2 gallons of coolant driving 15 miles. And the engine bay looked like a red clay factory exploded inside of it. I still find bits of that stuff all these years later.

Anyway, while they made zillions of these cars (both Ford and Mercury models) with V6s, they only made 3,260 of them with a 5.0 H.O. engine. This is one of them. This article has better background on these cars: https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/the-other-lx-ford-ltd

This thing has been my test bed for all sorts of wacky stuff. First "serious" mod was mounting two CFI throttle bodies on an Edelbrock F28 dual 4bbl manifold. All kinds of trickery was needed to get it to work with the stock computer (no way to tune it back then).
CFIPicsSheet.jpg

Then came the Haltech F9A fuel injection computer. Then I tried building my own multi-spark ignition from scratch.... and so it spiraled.

The first forced induction setup was an Eaton M90 that I mounted to it back in the late '90s. I ran with that thing for about 6-7 years, even placed 3rd in a Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords "Two Tons Of Ford Fun" shootout. Here's the article: https://www.motortrend.com/events/0410mm-ford-muscle-car-comparison/ Scroll down to the 3rd place winner.
MMFFLTDPic2.jpg
MMFFLTDPic3.jpg

Then next was a modified Jaguar Eaton M112 blower which pushed it into the 10's; after that came the Whipple setup which got it into the 9's on pump gas:

I went a bit nuts on that setup and even built my own A/W intercooler core - I needed a core where air could flow lengthwise and across at the same time:

It worked really well; it could melt 15 lbs of ice in a 9 second pass. The pump turned on during the burnout and shut off at the timing shack.

I even ended up built my own belt tensioner using ball bearings, a porch swing spring and a Hyabusa steering damper filled with 50 weight oil:

Now on to the question at hand. It started out with a 302 (5.0) flat tappet engine making a whopping 175 hp. I dropped two more .030 over 302s over the years (.030 302 = 306 ci). Driving back from the track one night after 9 consecutive mid 10 second passes with the Jaguar M112 Eaton blower on it, I noticed oil pressure would drop when I'd give it gas on the highway. 8.2 deck small block Fords are known for splitting down the middle at the 550hp level. If it hadn't been for the intake manifold and especially the stud girdle I put in, I would've had to go home in a tow truck and had two four cylinders to show for my efforts:

Main2.jpg

I'm going to skip over the part where I wasted a $5,500 Dart shortblock in 4 passes. That hurts my soul too much to talk about.

The current engine is an 8.2" deck Dart Iron Eagle Sportsman block (between an SHP and Iron Eagle) that should easily be able to hold 1,400 hp. It's got 4.135" bore, 3.25" stroke for 365ci displacement; dished & forged J&E pistons (for all wacky forced induction stuff I come up with) yielding 8.8:1 compression, Trick Flow Twisted wedge heads ported by yours truly (going from 170cc runners to 185cc runners by hand is something I'll never do again; never mind paying for three trips to the flow bench), and what started out as a Trick Flow Street intake manifold that I carved over 11lbs of aluminum out of (the wasted $5,500 Dart block taught me why you should not use 5L sized parts on a 6L engine), a 100mm throttle body and 1 3/4" Kooks long tube headers all controlled by a Megasquirt MS3x with a custom Cherry crank trigger.
MLSGasket.jpg

LongBlockUpper.jpg
IntakeTrash.jpg
IntakePortedHalf.jpg

CutIntakeShortAssy2.jpg
IntakeMockupWeb.jpg
 
wow

now the context of "weight saving" power adder is more clear.

bad ass history in many ways ... and melting ESCs and arcing loadtesters and welding with the battery pack seems only fun now "on the way to eBoost" 🤣
 
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