E turbo'd Suzuki Swift Build

I'm curioust to see your motor rotor how's it's made? The CM version's supposed to have stainless sleeve! But mine had a kevlar wrap.. I'm pretty sure they send me a normal version of the motor. Sad enough, they don't respond me about it.
 
Wow! It don't look like mine at all!
It's crazy if we think about it..
I'm pretty sure they send me a normal serie instead of a CM because of the kevlar wrap. You have the stainless sleeve!
So If I was able to achieve the results I had with the normal 4070. It means that all my data is wrong? And it should be better?
 
Well looking at the power you are applying to your motor (12kw) i think, then the normal motor you have would be vastly overloaded lol..


How much rpm do you need ? they make a TP4080-CM

TP POWER TP4080-CM MOTOR

I see they are now making a TP4080-CM which is great news... well for some of us :0 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003765826702.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.23372e0e1olWr6 Motor mod.: TP4080-CM Max. power: 11.000W Cont. power: 6.000W Max. RPM: 68.000 RPM per volt: 2022KV and 2700KV Max...
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i see you have previously mentioned this one .. it looks great but VERY EXPENSIVE

www.aliexpress.com

458.0US $ |Vented Sealed Tp Power Tp5670-cm Brushless Motor 1/8 Car Boat (8mm Shaft) - Parts & Accs - AliExpress

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Despite that video where i saying i would buy more of those 6ah lto's i managed to pickup 10 18ah lishen cells like Alex

They were 66.8 each delivered V 53 each ( NZD ), Which considering they are 3 times the capacity is a pretty good price.

Will 10 be enough ... in theory they will be but we can always add more.

I was able to do alot more testing on how much current i could pull from my alternator thanks to finding that my bench grinder pulled 10 amps and my bench dill pulled 20.

Previously i was hoping that the car would try to maintain 14.4v which i doesn't specifically try to maintain that.. The car WILL try to maintain over 13.7v and no more than 14.8v. Reducing the current the closer it gets to 14.8v.

At idle (700rpm) with all the lights on i can only pull 20 amps.
If the lights are off OR the RPM is higher i can pull more.

I think the plan is to charge at 30amps ( 30amps from the 12v system) but PWM that to maintain a 12v Voltage of something .. I haven't decided yet lol ... This means that i can adjust the current to the E-turbo cells based on what head room i have a available at the time.
 
Thanks for posting pics of the rotor - I've never taken mine apart; but it's just a "normal" unit. I think you'll like those Lishen cells - they're almost impossible to get here in the states now; though SQCTS on here told me about Toshiba's new SCiB LTO EV car cells - they're pretty interesting too. I'm thinking about possibly changing my bus bars from aluminum to copper; but damn - that's over $100 worth of copper I have to buy... Not sure how much that'll help.

Your setup/plan looks great so far.
 
BTW - I looked at those superchargers too - I think that's an excellent idea, and congrats on the find.
 
That about sums up how I feel too. Though I do think some of the new high C rate LiFePo4 cells are worth looking at (the higher voltage means fewer cells needed), but you'll still end up weighing and costing the same to match what the LTOs are capable of - the real advantage would be more ah capacity. Plus getting those newer LiFePo4 cells reliably is tricky.
 

Further to this Video

1) I ended up buying some lishen 18ah LTO's that turned out to be trash... I'm still hoping to get my money back .. But i wouldn't bet on it.

2) i bought a VESC 75/300 Because ALEX hasn't blown his up

3) I found some one DIY SCing his swift.. he says that at 7.4 PSI it runs lean on the stock injectors.. Based on this it maybe possible to run it at .3 bar ..4.3 PSI on the stock injectors

hks1.PNG

I of course can change the injectors.

I was hoping i could run the 4.3 PSI with just a tune.

Now i think im better off installing a wide band O2 sensor AND a piggy back ECU and tune it my self. This will also allow me to run bigger injectors.
Im intending on buying a DET 3+

Now with me loosing my money on my batteries and having to buy a Wo2 and DET 3... this has massively increased the price. This probably means it wont get up and running till the end of 2023
 
i just received one of these .

1670881049431.png

This can run in 2 modes.. piggyback mode (stock injectors) or "fuel impant" to allow me to run larger injectors.

Right now i'll just get it going and try to use it to remove "Rev hang" which i hate with a passion
 
AlexLTDLX said:
Did it work to remove the "rev hang?"
Click to expand...

I had hoped to retard the timing massively but unfortunately the stock ECU doesn't like a Massive retard and throws a error code.

I could trick the ECU into thinking there is very little air coming through and so it would mostly cut fuel.. im not sure if that would work though cos it might be running in closed loop mode.. And this idea should be sending through unburnt fuel, which might be a bad idea.
 
Severely retarded timing can also cause heat issues. At least it's not a critical issue. Any progress on the e-turbo? (I honestly hate calling it that, but it's just so easy to write...)
 
AlexLTDLX said:
Severely retarded timing can also cause heat issues. At least it's not a critical issue. Any progress on the e-turbo? (I honestly hate calling it that, but it's just so easy to write...)
Click to expand...
Yeah rev hang is unrelated to the E-Turbo.. but the piggie back controller is not as that is required for the E-turbo. So im making indirect progress. I have also ordered my Wide Band O2 sensor. After that is installed i then can get back to spending money on the actual E-Turbo..

I have done a few small things on the E-Turbo. But really the E-turbo just needs a huge amount of money pumped into it and that will sadly take a LONG time.
 
MkngStffAwesome said:
I had hoped to retard the timing massively but unfortunately the stock ECU doesn't like a Massive retard and throws a error code.

I could trick the ECU into thinking there is very little air coming through and so it would mostly cut fuel.. im not sure if that would work though cos it might be running in closed loop mode.. And this idea should be sending through unburnt fuel, which might be a bad idea.
Click to expand...


do you have a perimeter called throttle follower you can adjust with your piggy back? that's normally what they call the idle air stepper motor setting that follows the throttle body opening. if you do, you can decrease that % and fix your throttle hang. I have no experience tuning that system, but in general that's how most ecm's do it.
 
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