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So i tested the pressure of that 50mm fan. It is rated at 50mm=715W MAX in 25.2V. 30 amps.. I tried it on 5s it made about 1psi with no flow... BUT it got so hot that it would melt down on 5s so it's irrelevant that it made 1psi.. I could do more testing but i dont see there is any point as it...

250$ twice :(

Not really .. the first set of parts.. the bearing holes where to small the second time they are to big. for the shaft the first was to big.. and the second to small. To be honest im not surprised this exact reason was why i originally wanted to get someone local to make it because i could give...

It is slightly better than that PSI because you didn't remove the central hub from the 120mm area... Not that that would change the number significantly. The interesting thing is that the quoted thrust numbers never tell you at what flow rate, it certainly wont be 0 flow rate. I know them and...

In my opinion ducted fan wont be that good because they are designed to create trust not pressure and flow.. To have good pressure you need a large central hub and overlapping blades.. I bought one of the latter to see what pressure it would give out of interest.

Sooo after a long discussion with them i paid to get it made again.. Unfortunately it's still a pile of junk that doesn't fit perfectly together.. So this was just a huge waste of money.

After complaining to PCBWAY that basically all of it needs to go in the bin this is what they produced on their tolerances. 0.2mm What a complete Joke !

So i got this made by PCBway. it was a fraction of the price than getting it made locally but as i thought china would fail to make it correctly One of the bearings doesn't fit and i broke it trying to remove it.. Also the counter clockwise thread on the shaft was made the normal way.. not...

would you actually fit a P-2 in your engine bay ? .. it's pretty big and modern cars dont have much wasted space

Semes simplest to use an Arduino (5v) to read the TPS from the sensor it's self , since the Ardunio can control the VESC too

Yeah rev hang is unrelated to the E-Turbo.. but the piggie back controller is not as that is required for the E-turbo. So im making indirect progress. I have also ordered my Wide Band O2 sensor. After that is installed i then can get back to spending money on the actual E-Turbo.. I have done a...

I had hoped to retard the timing massively but unfortunately the stock ECU doesn't like a Massive retard and throws a error code. I could trick the ECU into thinking there is very little air coming through and so it would mostly cut fuel.. im not sure if that would work though cos it might be...

Well you are right about the higher pole count resulting in higher Erpm for the same rpm .. resulting in more switching losses.

i keept getting hacked by Russians.. signing up to the Cloudflare Free helped alot, so i would suggest you do that too.

i just received one of these . This can run in 2 modes.. piggyback mode (stock injectors) or "fuel impant" to allow me to run larger injectors. Right now i'll just get it going and try to use it to remove "Rev hang" which i hate with a passion

The other thing i forgot to say is that the manufacture would have never guessed that it would be put in a hot engine bay, which would reduce the max continuous power greatly. Also i have always assumed manufactures ratings dont assume that you will be applying max volts and max current at the...

Well .. for a start the wire gauge is far to small. Also in the RC world "continuously" doesn't literally mean running at 300 amps like you'd expect. Lastly it probably doesn't have any limits to ensure that the current stays under 300.. I would expect this to be like the "flyers" ESC's...

i wouldn't expect that to run at 300amps long term...

i did receive all 10 cells.. but they are basically trash . I was not able to get my money back.

I think he tried both serial and parallel